【OD 話題】以抄襲、侵權起家!醒醒吧,花大把鈔票買的 Supreme 不是品質,更不是原創!

睽違已久,Supreme 本周終於釋出了眾所矚目的 Box Logo Crewneck,雖然每周的單品都如同本周一樣秒殺,但一件定價不到 $5000 新台幣的衛衣,炒賣價得以來到 $25000-30000 左右,可說是超群出眾,無人能及。

 

Supreme 之所以能夠有這麼高的轉售價值,不外乎就是因為他已經不單單只是一個服飾品牌,他渾然已是一個時代的代表。原身不過是一個板牌的他,卻在經歷了 20 多個年頭後,成為引領高端精品和街頭潮流合併的龍頭之一。

 

▲ Supreme 創辦人 James Jabbia 榮獲 CFDA(美國時裝設計師協會大獎)男裝設計師獎

然而,在如此光鮮亮麗的名聲之下,Supreme 從 1994 年創立至今,大大小小的抄襲醜聞從沒停歇過。街頭潮流最重要的「獨立」「不隨波逐流」精神,打從一開始,Supreme 就和這些態度無關。

 

▲ James Jabbia & Supreme

今番【OD 話題】就為各位帶來 Supreme 自創立至今,是如何靠著「抄襲」爬上街牌頂端,靠著「侵權」賺進大把鈔票。


首先我們就將時間拉回 1995 年。僅僅創立一年,Supreme 本就著初生之犢不畏虎的精神,大膽的將當時紅透半邊天的時尚品牌 Calvin Klein 與 Kate Moss 所拍攝的寫真照片絲毫不變的挪用到自產的 T 恤上,並且硬是將自己也是抄襲來的 Supreme Box Logo 貼在 Kate Moss 身穿的泳褲上。

 

▲ Calvin Klein 和 Kate Moss 的廣告

▲ Supreme x Kate Moss Tee 1995

此舉當然讓 Calvin Klein 非常不滿,他們立即起訴 Supreme,捍衛自己的權利。然而,最終由於 Kate Moss 本人替這個新興板牌 Supreme 撐腰,才得以和解收場。這是 Supreme 第一次靠著起爭議賺到了名利雙收。

 

▲ Kate Moss 本人時常著用 Supreme 單品

隨後在 2004 年復刻此 T 恤外,在 2012 年為了紀念這個品牌大事,已成氣候的 Supreme 便正式的邀請 Kate Moss 一同合作系列單品,算是合法的了了一樁心事。

 

▲ 此系列 Photo Tee 炒價破萬


安靜了幾年,於 2000 年,Supreme 又搞了一個大的。這次不只是一件單品,而是出了一整個系列。苦主是百年精品 Louis Vuitton,Supreme 借用了他們經典的 Monogram,將 LV 字樣改成「$」,配上 Louis Vuitton 常用的卡其色與棕色。

 

Louis Vuitton 可不是好惹的,當時 Louis Vuitton 便一狀告上法院,並勒令 Supreme 銷毀該系列單品,相較 Calvin Klein 的高舉輕放,Louis Vuitton 果然是狠角色。還留在交易市場上的系列單品物以稀為貴,價格高得嚇人根本就是藝術品等級了。

 

大家沒想到的是 17 年後, Supreme 和 Louis Vuitton 聯名誕生,改變時尚潮流界的生態。

 


2007 年,Supreme 推出了以美國國家大學體育協會 NCAA 隊徽為主題的棒球外套,該設計十分「單純」,便是把各隊隊徽打散,移植至紅色和黑色的外套上頭。但其實 Supreme 並沒有獲得 NCAA 的授權,這樣擅自將 Logo 挪用於營利事業的行為當然也遭受 NCAA 的起訴勒並令停止銷售。

 

▲ Supreme x NCAA

該系列棒球外套不像致敬 Louis Vuitton 系列還有機會入手,他們早已在再售市場銷聲匿跡。有趣的是,Off-White 主理人兼現任 Louis Vuitton 男裝總監 Virgil Abloh 在一次訪問中竟著用該件外套。

 

▲ 除了衣服,左下更是亮點

和前兩個爭議事件類似的是,在吃了 NCAA 的閉門羹之後,Supreme 便找來了更高層級的運動聯盟:NBA 攜手打造聯名系列。而採用的設計主軸如出一轍,便是在棒球外套上將球隊的 Logo 直接縫製上去。一種對 NCAA 示威的氣息油然而生。

 

▲ Supreme x NBA


最近幾年,由於 Supreme 自己的名聲早已遠播,即便抄襲,對品牌方來說或許也能說是另一種宣傳方式,所謂「互蹭」使得 Supreme 即便持續抄襲,也沒有如同以往的官司纏身。

 

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This is one of the few tees that has been recalled very shortly after release. Covered once on the page a couple of years back, I now present to you the ‘Candy Girl,’ tee with an updated reference. This S’S 2015 t-shirt is immediately recognizable as the ‘Fujiya,’ candy ‘Milky,’ the Caramel candies, though Japanese, can be found here in the states very easily. The candy company, founded in 1951, has a funny folklore myth behind their logo; A starving girl during WWII was so hungry that her mother fed her off a piece of her own flesh, leading to her happy content smile. Nevertheless, when Supreme references a popular logo like so, it’s usually because someone else did it first. And so was the case for this graphic. ‘Red Kross,’ is an alternative/punk group out of Hawthorne California. They’ve released 6 albums and a handful of side projects, and their first show ever was opening up for Black Flag. The pictured t-shirt was released sometime between ‘93-‘96, in between the albums ‘Phaseshifter,’ and ‘Show World.’ What I find funny about this situation is Supremes alteration of the milky logo: it is very apparent they tried to avoid any sort of copyright, and while flipping the tongue and winking an eye certainly helped, a cease and desist still followed. Red Kross on the other hand, (who’s tee was much smaller scale and released in a much different time) released their t-shirt with no visible logo alterations, and no problems either. Funny the difference 20 years will make. Thanks to @nic_fit for the awesome pic of the Red Kross tee!

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▲ 台灣人十分熟悉的不二家 Peko 醬

▲ Tommy Hilfiger

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For non band wagon fans of last nights championship team, I’m sure the ‘Bolt,’ Jersey was immediately recognizable upon Thursday’s release. The lightning bolt logo comes from a completely different era in the Golden State team history, premiering in 1997 as the first jersey to stray away from the traditional blue yellow and white. The jerseys coincided with the teams new mascot, ‘Thunder,’ which ceased to exist upon The SuperSonics move to Oklahoma. Four time all star Latrell Sprewell was #15 on the Warriors during this time, though the ‘97 season was short lived for him. On December 1st 1997, Head coach P.J. Carlesimo told Sprewell to ‘put a little mustard,’ on a pass. Sprewell responded that he wasn’t in the mood for criticism. Upon Carlesimo’s response, Sprewell threatened to kill him and dragged him backwards by his throat for 7-10 seconds before being pulled off. Sprewell went off to shower and upon returning gave Carlesimo another blow at his right cheek before being dragged away again. The following day the Warriors voided the remainder of his $23.7 million, 3 year contract, and the NBA suspended Sprewell for the remaining 68 games of the season. It wasn’t until February 1999 he would return to the court, playing for the New York Knicks. Someone pointed out that maybe Supreme releasing a Golden State reference jersey is a hint at their upcoming San Francisco store. With many jersey releases in the past however, this could be their simple homage to Latrell Sprewell, or the Golden State Warriors in general.

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▲ NBA 勇士隊球衣

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SS '18s 'Necklace,' tee is yet another example of Supremes love for referencing music. While usually an older merch tee is taken to reference, this graphic is a recreated album cover from rock group 'Saliva,' and their 2001 album 'Every Six Seconds,' (named after the fact on average men think about sex every six seconds). While it's likely there was also merch created with the Saliva album cover, I have yet to see any examples. Supreme's necklace that was made for the recreation of the album cover also appears as an accessory in the season, except as a "block logo keychain," and not a necklace, and the model Supreme used for the shoot is none other than @ali_michael Thanks to everyone who has sent this in! #supremeforsale #supreme4sale

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▲ Supreme 18 SS Tee 抄襲搖滾團體 Saliva《Every Six Seconds》專輯封面

除此之外,雖不算抄襲,但近年來 Supreme 的聯名系列十分喜歡直接拿發過的單品重製,而重製的方式就是將 Supreme Logo 印製上去。

 

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The new North Face collaboration releasing later this week is once again taking it back to the 90s. The ‘Cordura Plus,’ and ‘Gore Tex,’ logos have found themselves on a jacket once before, back around 1996-98. The pictured jacket was a Japan exclusive release and even had the overall pants to match (though a clear pic was hard to find I will be throwing up a blurry one on my story). This isn’t the first time Supreme has dived into the archives of North Face’s past releases to bring their collaborations to life, thought it is interesting to see them ‘re-mix,’ the design if you will and feature it on a zip up fleece. Special shoutout to @fullcourtclassics for the pic of the original, if anyone’s trying to scoop it off them I’m sure it won’t be available for long!

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▲ 2018 年新品,源自 1997 年

▲ 2018 年新品,源自 Nike 的復古單品,年份未知

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Tomorrow Supreme takes to re releasing the ‘Air Streak Spectrum Plus,’ a Nike running shoe released in 2003 that had been nearly forgotten until rumors of these began last year. Supreme takes to a reiteration of the ‘comet red,’ shoe, as well as a new, black and green color way. Pictured in the bottom left corner is an original 2003 color way that didn’t make the cut for this release. It is notable that the original pairs have a Japanese symbol on the front tongue and back heel, which is where Supreme took to adding their logo placement this time around. What’s your thoughts on Supreme following suit to trends of sort with this shoe and do you hope to see more re releases of early ‘00s Nike’s?

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▲ 2018 年新品,源自 2003 年

如今,Supreme 已經超越 Louis Vuitton,成為全世界「假貨」最多的品牌。以抄襲起家的 Supreme,終將面對類似自己曾對別人做過的事情,而在面對這樣的風波中,Supreme 是否能屹立不搖,還有待大家觀望。不過,照 Box Logo 還是如此火熱的情況下,若期待 Supreme 降溫,應該還需要好長一段時間。

 


Supreme 在創立之初的抄襲為他帶來了名和利,在當時由於品牌規模還小,這樣反骨叛逆的精神吸引了不少死忠粉絲。然而就像 H&M、ZARA 等等規模較大的品牌,到了這樣一個地位還持續抄襲,就不可同日而語。

Supreme 的此一現象或許能歸咎於消費者的盲從,也能說是行銷手法優異。畢卡索曾說:「好的藝術家懂複製,偉大的藝術家則擅偷取。」我們只能說那些「抄襲」失敗的永遠都在抄襲,而這些「抄襲」成功的,就能有創造出一片屬於自己的天。

 

source:instagram, Google

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